taken from Simple French Food, by Richard Olney, pages
329-330.
... whatever their destiny, poach calves' brains for about 25 minutes
(lambs' brains 18-20 minutes) in a court bouillon, slipping them gently
into the simmering liquid and keeping it a a near simmer, saucepan
covered, without permitting the boil to be reached. The court bouillon
may first be strained to remove herbs and vegetables (there are, however,
certain kitchen pleasures that are not shared at table - the beauty of
a pair of brains floating among carrot and onion slices and straggles
of herbs is among them. It is the only reason, also, for slicing the
onion into rings rather than halving it and slicing it much more rapidly).
Vinegar Court Bouillon
(Court Bouillon au Vinaigre)
3 pints boiling water
salt
1 medium onion (3 to 4 ounces), finely sliced
2 small carrots (3 to 4 ounces), finely sliced
Bay leaf, branches of thyme (or 1 teaspoon crumbled), bouquet parsley (plus root if possible)
1/4 cup good wine vinegar
10 to 12 whole peppercorns
Add all the ingredients, except the vinegar and the peppercorns, to the
boiling water and simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes. Add the
vinegar and the peppercorns and continue cooking at a simmer for
another 15 minutes or so....
Served directly from the court bouillon, drained a moment on a towel,
sliced over a heated serving platter with bubbling brown butter poured
over is the simplest and the purest way to appreciate brains. Chopped
parsley may be added; capers are often added; the butter is often black
instead of brown (I don't understand the taste for burned butter - it is,
furthermore, indigestible.)
:: zombiechow main ::